Manchester Guitar Tech

JLD Bridge System in Gibson J-200

Gibson J-200 lacquer cracks

Gibson J-200 lacquer cracks

The top on this Gibson J-200 has bellied a bit, so much so that the lacquer on the top has started to crack.

Consequently, I had trouble getting a low action and thought the guitar might be suitable for the JLD Bridge system, which can correct bowed tops.

Installing the JLD system was straightforward enough. I removed the endpin jack to be able to align the bridge system inside the guitar, with the rod contacting just below the endpin jack.

You should be able to see the body of the Bridge System in the lower photo.

The JLD bridge system won’t fix all guitars but in this case, the installation was a success and not only was the string height reduced but the guitar sounds better with an improved, tighter bass. I’m hoping that as the top responds to the tension of the bridge system, the action will come down even more in the coming weeks.

J-200 with JLD Bridge System installed

J-200 with JLD Bridge System installed

 

 

Gibson J-50 Partial Refret

Gibson J-50

Gibson J-50

This vintage Gibson J-50 played great but the lower frets were getting worn and needed attention. The original frets were wide and low, and if I dressed them, it would have resulted in very little height indeed.

I agreed with the guitar’s owner that a partial refret was the best option.

I replaced the first six frets with Stewart Macdonalds wide-low fretwire which was a great match for the original in height and width. Once installed, the new frets needed only a light dressing and good polish to match the old fret. As always, it’s hard to see the join!

Gibson J-50 partial refret

Gibson J-50 partial refret

 

Gibson Lucille Varitone True Bypass Modification

Lucille Varitone true bypass modification

Lucille Varitone true bypass modification

The owner of this Gibson Lucille wanted to get a better sound from his guitar. Although position “1″ on the Gibson Varitone switch is supposed to be bypass, it does leave the choke in the circuit which loses volume and precious tone.

As the guitar’s owner didn’t find the stereo feature of the guitar useful, there was an opportunity to convert the guitar to mono, and use the now redundant other half of the Varitone switch to switch the choke in and out of the circuit.

I found a post on the Les Paul Forum where someone had done a similar job on his Gibson ES-345 and kindly provided a wiring diagram.

The modified guitar now has a lot more volume in the bypass position and suffers no loss of tone.

DIY SOS – Fender LSR roller nut refitting

Fender LSR before

Fender LSR before

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, or so they say.

The owner of this guitar fitted a Fender LSR roller nut himself and I have to say showed some skill in cutting the wood away.

Unfortunately he misunderstood how the nut should be fitted and cut away far too much wood.

I tidied the bottom of the hole let in a piece of maple to fill it. I profiled the top of the fillet using a radiused sanding block before gluing then once the glue had dried, accurately cutting the slot for the LSR nut.

The repair was lacquered over using my Clear Satin nitrocellulose lacquer and flatted back smooth.

I did consider replacing the maple up to the first fret to hide the join, but the issue is only cosmetic, the join cannot be felt and to replace more wood than necessary would have increased both risk and cost.

The finished job looks like this. I have used no shims and the action at the first fret is spot on.

Fender LSR after surgery

Fender LSR after surgery

Another Epiphone EJ-200 Left-hand Conversion

Using Stewmac saddle routing jig on Epiphone EJ 200 left hand conversion

Using Stewmac saddle routing jig on Epiphone EJ 200 left hand conversion

Here’s another Epiphone left hand conversion I did recently, this time a natural finish guitar. I invested in a Stewart Macdonald saddle routing jig and yes, one day I’ll take the protective paper off it!

I used a Graphtec Tusq nut and saddle as I like the consistency of  the material, plus it’s easier to work than bone.

You might be able to see from the picture below that the factory had placed the bridge slightly askew.

Also, in order to get a low action, it was necessary to remove about 3mm from the top of the bridge. Luckily the bridges on these guitars are really thick and sturdy so removing a bit of height will cause no problems.

Epiphone EJ-200 left-hand conversion Natural

Epiphone EJ-200 left-hand conversion Natural