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Epiphone bridge saddles reduced, smoothed and slotted to radius

Left-handed Epiphone Les Paul Upgrade

Here’s a lefty Epiphone Les Paul that I upgraded the other day.

The list of upgrades is:

  • Tusq nut
  • fret dress
  • rewire
  • setup

Tusq nut

The nut on the guitar was a cheap hollow plastic replacement that had poorly cut string slots causing tuning problems. A new Tusq nut sorted that out.

Left-handed Epiphone Les Paul nut upgrade

Left-handed Epiphone Les Paul nut upgrade

Rewire

The existing electrics were the usual low quality components found on these 90s Epiphones. The switch didn’t switch (both pickups on in all 3 positions) and the tone controls were pretty ineffective with no noticeable difference in sound throughout their sweep.

I rewired using reverse-log taper CTS pots, a Switchcraft jack and a new switch. Interestingly the guitar was fitted with correct left-handed knobs with the numerals 1-10 running clockwise around the skirt.

Epiphone Les Paul new pots caps and jack socket

Epiphone Les Paul new pots caps and jack socket

Setup

A fret dress and full setup completed the job. Typically the bridge saddles were deeply grooved so I dressed them down, cut accurate string slots and made sure that the radius matched the fretboard.

Epiphone bridge saddles reduced, smoothed and slotted to radius

Epiphone bridge saddles reduced, smoothed and slotted to radius

5 Comments on “Left-handed Epiphone Les Paul Upgrade

  1. Hi Steve,

    Spotted my guitar on your website and just wanted to say thanks for your excellent work and quick turnaround. Plays so much better, sounds fantastic and looks great with the new nut on and frets dressed.

    To anyone reading this and considering a setup I can recommend Steve’s work without hesitation. Friendly service and exceptional value for money.

    Ian

  2. Steve, this looks great – i may be dropping my Epi LP in to you for some similar work.

  3. I just wanted to drop you a note to say how pleased i am with the work you did on my Epi Les Paul. The pick-ups sound amazing and the whole thing has given me a renewed lease of interest in my playing. I couldn’t be more pleased.

    • Generally on the underside.

      Measure the action at the 12th fret under each e string. Subtract the action you want and multiply the result by two. This gives you the approximate amount of material that you need to remove. Make sure that both the underside of the saddle and the slot in the bridge are level so that you get good contact between the two.

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